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Fill holes or dents in car bodywork
Don't pay bodyshop charges to fix small holes or dents in your car's bodywork. Haynes gives you some tips on getting good results with ...
How do you get stickiness off tape left on bodywork of car?
I had to tape up my rear window, and now i was wondering how to get rid of the stickiness left on the bodywork ?
I would say hot soapy water but not anything with ammonia or bleach, I always do that when I have bought something from the shop and the price tag was put in a wrong place! Hope it works gudluck!
Sorry I can't remember the name. It was something like Stickybits.
this worked wonders why I took off my cheap window tinting sheet
try using petrol to get stickiness off the bodywork.
How to remove chrome piping from exterior bodywork?
I have a VW Bora with chrome piping around the body of the car. When getting out of the car in a tight space, the chrome piping in the middle of the rear door caught on the side pocket of my trousers and bent it outwards :-(
To straighten the piping I need to remove it from the bodywork but am unsure how it is removed. I don't want to pull it off and then find I have broken it completely.
Does anyone know how to remove the piping on the exterior of a door panel?
Many thanks in advance for any advice.
you will probably find it won't straighten satisfactorily, my advice would be to go to a wrecker who deals in this model and make and ask him how to fit it, at the same time you can source the new piece of chrome.
Where can I buy carbon fiber bodywork?
I have a 2006 Suzuki GSX-R 750
First off, what's the difference between carbon fiber and carbon kevlar?
And finally, where can I buy carbon fiber (or carbon kevlar) bodywork and fairings for my bike? I know you can buy small stuff like front fenders on any websight, but I want the whole body/fairing. I need it to be for the street and have the headlight also. Thanks for your time!
Go to http://my-sports.org
click on "my sports store" on top menu
enter "carbon fiber" or "carbon kevlar" on left search bar.
There are many items in both search.
Good Luck
What would be reasonable cost of minor bodywork damage for peugeot 206?
"Bumped" hedgerow on nearside front leaving a small dent (size of fist) in front wing which I now need to repair before my husband sees it! Any idea of reasonable cost for such a repair?
If it needs to be repainted, I would say $200-300.
your best bet would be to tell your husband befor some one else do.then look around to find a place toi get it done
hope this helps
(ANS) I drive a 206 myself, so if the damage is really minor you may get away with a small repair to the front wing. However, remember that 206's are NOT made completely from metal parts.
Some of the 206 body panels are in fact made from either plastic or carbon-fiber, why is that relevant here? because in the olden days you could have a metal body panel beaten out to more or less the same shape as before i.e. no! dents remained after beating out. Now this isnt the case, so if the damage is bad you may be better off just getting a new body panel & replacing the old one.
This can normally be done very quickly if you take the car to a proper 206 dealer & servicing company who have the parts in stock. I know I had to have a new passenger door replaced after a motorway bump.
**My new door only cost £300 pounds on parts but the labour costs bumped that up to around £750 by the time other costs were included.
Ivan
What is the best way to care for carbon fibre bodywork on a motorcycle?
I've heard some cleaning products cause deterioration of the finish on the cf. If it does deteriorate, should a clear lacquer be reapplied?
use meguires/mothers/eagle one quick detailer
Why is the bodywork of cars so fragile and then expensive to repair?
With all the advances in car technology these last 30 years, why does the slightest knock (like from someone opening the door of the car parked next to it) or scrape from a bramble bush result in such an expensive repair job? Can car bodies not be made tougher, or is it just a racket for the car industry?
There's three big factors at work in the design of a modern automobile. Style, cost efficiency, and safety.
As far as style, take headlights for example. Look at cars from the early eighties, the seventies, the sixties--all the way back to the twenties. Nearly every car-- from a lowly Chevrolet all the way up to an expensive luxury car--had the same type of headlight as other cars of its era. In the eighties, it was the small square lights, in the sixties, it was the small round lights. In the forties and fifties, it was two big round lights. Go to a car lot now and compare. No two cars have the same headlights, they're custom made of plastic now, and owners simply replace the small halogen bulb instead of the entire headlight assembly. Today's headlights are designed to enhance the aerodynamics as well as the aesthetics of the car, which results in greater fuel efficiency. The cost of replacing a headlight is high because a relatively small number of each type are produced during a car's production run.
Also, in the seventies, the government started mandating certain crash ratings. Manufacturers were forced to develop "five-mph" bumpers that could withstand a low speed (five mph) impact without damage. Before that, car bumpers were made of heavy steel and chrome plated, they were held in place by rigid brackets. But the new requirements forced car makers to develop impact-absorbing brackets that would prevent damage at low speed. Eventually, the metal bumpers were replaced by plastic bumpers, much for the same reasons as headlights were replaced with custom units. Replacing the bumpers with plastic units had a couple of advantages--first, the weight reduction and ability to increase aerodynamic efficiency resulted in better fuel economy, and also allowed for even more resiliency during low-speed impacts.
You'd be amazed how resilient modern paints are. They can stretch and bend in remarkable ways before peeling or cracking. What happens is car manufacturers look at these properties in paints when deciding what materials to make body components out of. For example, the popularity of plastic bumper covers can be directly related to the fact that the paint will bend with the bumper during minor impacts. Of course, the paint is only as resilient as the primer base beneath it, and good primer costs quite a bit. And while it's easier to work with modern urethane paints, automotive painting is a hazardous profession that requires a lot of skill and specialized equipment. Paint is comprised of several components--the pigment, activator, reducer--which all contribute to the cost of paint job. Often, matching the new paint color with the car's existing finish requires expensive computerized equipment that takes the guess work out of color matching.
Back in the fifties, cars were rigid. There was little give in a crash. The force of an impact was distributed along the frame, which was built stiff and designed to give as little as possible under stress. People often think of these older cars as safer because of their heft when, in reality, they're not. Modern cars are designed to absorb as much of the impact of a crash as possible before it reaches the driver. In many cases, this means that the frame is divided into modular sections that are strategically weakened or shaped in such a way as to bend or break during a collision. This means that the car will suffer more damage during an accident, but that damage results in energy dissipation which means that the driver will be hurt far less than if the car was rigid. Even in minor accidents, these strategically weakened sections of the frame and unibody structure can bend and fail, necessitating expensive frame work or replacement before the car can be considered drivable again.
The metal used to build cars today is much thinner than metals used years ago. Up until the mid-seventies, the sheet metal used to make cars was thick enough to head, pound, and weld in order to fix dents and crash damage. This thicker metal was harder to dent and in some ways easier to fix. By the eighties, the metal used to build cars was very thin, thus easier to ding, dent, and damage. This thin metal has increased the fuel efficiency of automobiles by reducing weight, plus it lowered the cost of manufacturing the cars. However, it takes much more time and specialized equipment to repair. Often, it's significantly quicker and thus cheaper to replace an entire panel than to repair a small area of damage, simply because the metal is so hard to work with.
Another factor in the cost of automotive repair is insurance companies. Many body shop owners readily admit that with so many insurance companies willing to pay out on claims without auditing those claims, the shops stand to make a substantial profit for work done on insurance jobs. They can get away with billing for $30+ per hour and charge more for parts than they would with a private customer. Since there's typically never a shortage of insurance jobs, it doesn't make financial sense for a shop to take on a job for less money than they would otherwise make just because a client is paying out of pocket. This has created a market force by which the cost of getting work done is slowly but steadily increasing.
Car bodies can be made tougher, but the manufacturers have to weigh in so many other factors when designing cars. The bottom line, however, does come down to money. Until it's cheaper for them to manufacture more durable cars, they won't.
When it comes to repairing them, we need humans to do the repairs. Humans are paid high wages so the cost of the repair is so expensive.
then sometime in the mid-80's, cars started getting lighter from more aluminum, a-frame type bodies, and less-than-steel type bumpers....still didnt have airbags as 'standard' equipment on about 90% of the cars that u'd be able to afford.
now, the cars are more aluminum framewise, lighter weight sheet metal, and plastic bumpers. the biggest reason it costs so much to fix is: collapseable zones.
in the 40's to about 1982 or '83 vintage, car sections that got hit didnt collapse. now they do. they collapse to absorb the energy of the hit and keep as much of it out of the passenger compartment as possible, with the airbag as the final 'line of defense'. in the older cars, u might wind up havin the engine shoved in ur lap from the impact. now it gets forced down and away while the rest of the engine compartment and the front end basically breaks in half, and collapses absorbing all the impact.
the front is gonna be going from impact speed to zero in a split second, but the back of the car is still going to be at impact speed until all the energy of travel speed is dissapated.
The cost to a paint shop of setting up properly with an oven and the filters they must have by law to reduce emmisions is extortionate. A friend of mine runs one and he paid £20k for his oven.
If it was easy you could do it yourself but its not so it cost a lot.
They are starting to make some body panels out of plastic which is more resistant to dents.
What works well to remove scratches and dings off of my car's bodywork?
I have tried applying the stuff from the orange bottle (Scratch Doctor) as advertised with a clean towel and letting it air dry before wiping it off. I have many scratches and dings from car doors on my car's body all around so the bottle gets used up rather quickly. while it may appear to have removed them from the first attempts at certain viewing angles, they magically reappear the next day. what else should i try?
I also had a hard time with scratch doctor. I've tried a couple other products but none have helped at all. So I just took it down to Maaco and got their $350 special. They did it back in November and my car looks slick as a babys bottom. I think it comes with a 2 yr warranty.
I'm guessing thats the best way to do it.
Sorry! Good luck!
How do i safely get glue off my car's bodywork without ruining the paint?
My driveway is overshadowed by some trees and they've started dropping sap onto my car and i've carefully got most of it off with usual car cleaning stuff and plenty of water but theres still a bit left dried to the paint and i need to know how to safely get it off without ruining the paint work.
Plus theres a bit on the window too!
Any help will be appreciated.
Isopropyl Alcohol. But I would try the heat first, you can probably warm it enough to make it plyable and rub it off, but if it still won't come go to the alcohol.
Where can I find complete front bodywork for a 1997 Ninja zx6?
I have recently acquired a 1997 zx6 that had been laid down and is missing all the front body work except the fender. I am looking for help in locating new or used parts for the bike. Thanks for you help.
Gee... Have you considered talking to the parts guy at your friendly local Kawasaki dealer?
Can I put ducati 999 bodywork on my 900SS?
I love my ducati, but I'm not crazy about the looks. I love he look of the 999's and would love to put the bodywork from that on my bike if possible.
It won't really fit. The 999 has a radiator and under seat exhaust. The 900ss has higher handle bars. The head lights and mounts are very different.
The bikes have completely different frames so the body mounts will not line up. And the tanks won't sit or mount the same.
It will be a bit expensive, but go ahead and "customize" your bike any way you want!