ManaManaSpa

am going to start a Swimming pool construction company . Please suggest suitable name ?

Feb 24, 2008 by GOPA K | Posted in Other - Business & Finance

am going to start a Swimming pool construction company . Please suggest suitable & good catchy names ?

Splash!

What companies are the best for swimming pool construction in Oklahoma City?

May 26, 2006 by Janet J | Posted in Other - Home & Garden

Are there any pool owners that recently had a pool installed that could offer your opinions?

Try Cardinal Pools.

Does anyone know what the consumer protection laws are for swimming pool construction in VA?

Sep 09, 2008 by Angry Swimmer | Posted in Law & Ethics

I just recently had an in ground swimming pool built in my back yard. That is the beginning of my problems. Here is the list:
1) Dug the pool too deep and caused drainage problems
2) Poured concrete
- left holes and rough edges
-put seams in crooked
-seams are not symetrical
-seams are missing
3)installed the slide on wrong side
-when he moved it to the correct slide left hole in concrete on other side
4)Slide leaks
5)Oh Yeah! Its the wrong slide!
6)Scratched up coping trying to scrape concrete off
7)Light was installed off center
8)Ladder is crooked
9)Ripped up edges of existing concrete while working
10) Tore up neighbors yard and tree with concrete truck

Anyway you get the picture. Help!!!

You should have checked the references of your builder before agreeing to let him build your pool. It seems to me that with this many problems, this is a pool builder that probably shouldnt be in the business anymore. Always Check your local Better Business Bureau for complaints etc. If you have had this many problems, I am sure that there are others that have complained as well.

I don't know the laws for Virginia, but i am sure if you get an attorney to try to recoup some of your money due to inadequate or shoddy work, since things were not done to expectations that once served with these papers from the attorney the company in question might change their ways. Your other choice is to have the decking and the slide, and other such problems fixed by another company and make them pay for the repairs necessary.

The one problem you might encounter is that a pool company might sub-contract some of the work out, and therefore, while technically they are liable for the work of the subcontractor they hired, the subcontractor can also be liable for their shoddy work.

I would consult a lawyer. Obviously having the pool in the backyard, there wont be any issues with seeing the problems. Just make sure you have your contract you signed with the pool builder, and the blueprints if they were given to you, or you have your own copies so that you can prove that the design of the pool was not followed as planned.

Hope this helps.

looking for swimming pool building DVD or home schooling?

Jul 05, 2006 by blksnkvnm@sbcglobal.net | Posted in Home Schooling

looking for DVD's or books on swimming pool construction

National Spa and Pool Institute (NSPI) has a web site. They offer certification courses in building, repair, etc.

I need to find some info on the construction of swimming pools... some step by step info would be great!!?

Sep 20, 2006 by marlana g | Posted in Garden & Landscape

If you have time plz help me...any info close to my topic would be a tremendous help!!

I assume you're asking about ingrounds? There are two types, concrete (gunite) and vinyl. Concrete pools are "shot". We use a compressor to shoot the crete against virgin dirt of the excavation after doing all the plumbing and laying out and bending rebar we had spaced out between 8 to 10 inches apart. That's what gives the shell strength.( no forms unless a special shape or attached spa etc) to a thickness of about 8 to 10 inches. After the crete has cured, tiles are done around the perimter top edge and we prep for plaster, taking off high spots and cleaning the rough crete surface. A finnish called marbalite is then troweled on. It's a marble dust/ waterproof plaster mix. This gives a nice, waterproof , smooth finnish. Here's a link to a few pics to a concrete build http://www.anthonysylvan.com/build/newconstruction.asp
Here's something that I wrote up a few months ago about a vinyl pool and it's construction.
The steps involved are :
1/ Excavation - don't forget a 2 foot over dig with shelf for the steel to sit on and room for plumbing and your deck supports. The dig HAS to accurate or you will have some hard work ahead of you and additional expense.
2/ Steel assembly- assemble the steel and move the entire wall assembly around to match the specs on your drawing. Also take note, the drawing will indicate where the skimmer and return panels need to go.To install the stairs and supports you'll need help, preferably 3 people for this.Also don't forget to take into account the final height of the coping( use a scrap piece) against the stairs. That scrap should be slightly below the top of the stair edge, when you put it on the pool wall. That way, when you do your deck later the stairs will be just above the concrete all around.
The completed assembly should sit pretty close to the edge of that shelf (inside edge of that shelf made on the dig), use a transit (what you used to get your dig bang on) to level the walls, Check each panel's end to do this. You may have to shave some dirt out, that's ok and to be expected.check your dimension measurements again against the drawing. Assemble the deck supports and bolt them in place. Stake them down at the back with the rods provided with your kit, as well as every few feet along the wall sections. Check your dimensions again ( stuff moves, people bang things, better to check often than to make major adjustments), now get the walls vertical, checking each panel and either pushing down the rear of a deck support or raising it and shimming.
Tips: For straight sections longer than one panel, use a string line to get them straight. Your drawing will have measurements from certain panels for radius checks for round sections as well as diagonals.When using the transit to get the panel heights level, don't worry if you are out 1/16 th of an inch,and shimming won't get it bang on, it won't be noticeable, but always try, it can't hurt.The shallow end , by the stairs should be your start point for checking wall heights. There SHOULD be a gap of at least an inch between the shallow end panels and the bottom. This will get filled in when you do your shell and final finnish.This ensures that your final shallow end depth will be the wall height , with no matrial being shallower.
Check all measurements, including depths in both the shallow and deep end. Modify as needed. Don't forget, that if you are intending to put in a shell ( most do) that it will need to be considered as well as the portland/sand/vermicuite finnish coat. You want to shoot for the final finnish being at least 2 inches to 4 inches deeper than what the liner (if it's pre made) is specc'd for. The vinyl will stretch out when you install it and going a little deeper will help ensure that you will have fewer wrinkles to push out.
If you are planning on putting in a main drain, you'll need to plumb it up.Stake it down and make a shallow trench in your bottom and wall for the pipe to sit in, dig out under the wall enough to have the line go through and leave enough pipe out of the trench to reach where you plan on putting the equipment, plus 10 feet. Keep that pipe out of the overdig for now and use duct tape to cover the main drain and it's screw holes.
3/ Perimeter pour- concrete time, no forming needed. Check your perimeter measurements and vertical one last time, after this, you are committed. You need to pour concrete all around the perimeter up against the wall, about 1 foot-1 1/2 foot wide and 10 inches deep, more around all the deck supports and any sono tube. Any places where there are no deck supports need to have sono tube , usually in corners or around the back of the stairs. Make sure you are on virgin dirt and not fill also, don't fill the tubes yet, just a little inside and a lot around the bases. Be careful tipping the concrete in, you don't want to move the walls.When you're done and the concrete still hasn't set, yup, you guessed it, check your perimeter again, the staright walls, likely have moved a bit with the weight of the concrete. Get them now before it's too late, you're committed and this will be the shape of your pool forever.
Let the concrete set, takes a day.Have a beer, have 10 it's tough work, I know this.
4/ Time to do the plumbing. Trench out to your planned equipment location and install the pool plumbing. Mark the end of each line as to what it's function is. Try to keep debris out of these lines, that main drain line can go in the trench now.
Tip: Don't run the plumbing up against any sharp steel edges, try to use single sections of pipe to minimize the number of physical connections underground. They are potential leak spots 10 years down the road. Don't put sharp bends in the pipe, it can kink and that's especially bad news in a suction line as it may collapse later or at least, clog easier.
5/ Pool shell- remove any excess dirt in the pool. Set up a string line across the break point ( where shallow end starts and deep end ends) level with the bottom of the panels. If there are large gaps, where material has fallen away, fill with concrete.Your shell doesn't need any reinforcement ( you can add it if you want), but needs to be at least 2 inches thick everywhere. You accounted for this in your dig. Trowel it out, getting it perfectly smooth isn't important, but getting out humps is. Let it set for a day, have a beer or have 20. Bet you're thirsty now,eh?
6/ Install the liner track/ coping- need two people for this. Make sure you screw it down every 8 inches or so and keep your curves nice.
7/ Back fill day- use 3/4 stone or sand ( we prefer stone) to backfill around the pool in the overdig. Go easy around the plumbing. No need to use the stone in the trench to the equipment, just the dirt you took out. Fill under the stairs well, keep pushing the stone in there untill it won't take anymore, then add more.
8/Deck time- Form up your deck. The standard is 3 feet arond the pool , but you can do whatever you want. Make sure that the tops of the deck supports are visible and time to fill the sono tubes with concrete as you progress with your deck. Don't forget your ladder anchors and diving board jig.
9/ Prep for final finnish- remove any chunks of concrete from the wall base, and the bottom. Anything that sticks up. Now for the finnish. Use a vermiculite/sand/portland mix. 1 bag vermic,10 shovels sand, two shovels portland add water sparingly. Mix, add water until it's a little sloppy, just a little. Trowel it on the bottom and slopes. Start in the deep end and work your way towards the stairs. It's difficult trowling pointed downslope, but it makes exiting the pool later, easier. Your final finnish should be even with your main drain ( if installed).and meet the base of the wall as best as possible. Don't forget that string line across the break point. Your final finnish should be up to it and the edge you make with the mix will follow the string to make a nice straight level line. On a nice sunny day, this mix dries fast, so watch your work .
10/ Have some beer. If it's nice out, that mix will dry enough to walk on in a few hours( providing you didn't make it too wet). It will likely be too late in the day to put the liner in, but you can get a jump start on cleaning up. Remove the breakpoint line and pegs, fill in as needed with some vermic mix.Scrape off any of the vermic on the walls, and humps of vermic can be scraped down somewhat, using a hand trowel, same goes for trowel marks left when you spread out the mix. Get them now, they'll be visible later. Duct tape all the vertical seams in the wall panel, duct tape over the skimmer mouth and retruns. Clean out any concrete in the liner track of the coping and off the face. For the face water and a plastic scrubbie, so you don't scratch the paint. If your liner is not pre made to the kit specs, get in there and measure.Your dealer will have a liner measurement sheet, get one and fill it in. Give the manufaturer or dealer your measurements and SPECIFY ( get it in writing) that the measurements are ones you took and exact to your pool, with no adjustment. Include they colour and thickness desired and any other items that may be specific to your pool. That way, the onus is on the manufacturer to get your liner right and add in factors like liner stretch. If it doesn't fit, then you have recourse. They DO make mistakes when making them. Expect an average 30 mil liner for a 16x32 to be about 1200 bucks ( canada).
11/ Liner day and pool fill- get in the pool and scout it for sharpies .Anything that protrudes, will show or possibly hole the liner. Sweep and shop vac, get it all. Time to hang the liner. I also advise you not to do this yourself and get a pro in. A goof at this stage can cost some big bucks, but if you're determined, read on. No hard and fast rules here. It's specific to the shape of the pool and how many hands you have. Put the liner box in the shallow end, it will have markings on the exterior telling you what way to point it to the deep end. Unpack the top of the box, look for the documentation. It sucks having to drain a pool, go under the liner to grab that booklet that dropped out of the box that no one noticed. Unfold the liner and look for two arrows. These are your break points. Start here, hanging the liner into the track at each side of the break. You may have to move the liner this way or that, to get it just right, you can slide it, while it's in the track, do this in small sections around corners so it doesn't pop out on you. When it starts to pop out, it just keeps on going and can put 30 minutes work down the tubes in seconds. When it looks good, start up the liner vac (rent one) to suck out the air behind the liner and make it fit into the shell. You may need two people ( shoes off) in the pool to hold the liner against the wall at each side of the stairs. No stairs, no problem. When it's sucked back, go on a wrinkle hunt. Push wrinkes out towards walls, where you can, it can get lost in the cove at the wall base. Stubbourn packing wrinkles can be gotten rid of with a kettle of boiling water. Just pour on the site. If you are happy with how it looks, great, keep the vac on and install the stair stripping if you have stairs. This part, you may want a pro for. If you goof, even a little bit, it can have huge consequences. You are putting screws through the liner, if you miss the predrilled holes in the stairs, you now have a hole in the liner, that may be in a very bad spot. Also, a pro will know if the liner under the stairs will be problem free and not too tight as to rip when being filled.
12/ If all looks good, fill time. When there's about 6-8 inches of water in the deep end, Install the main drain face plate and cut out the vinyl inside. A nice round cut, not jagged, don't worry about making the cut flush to the main drain, a little excess inside is ok, it won't be seen. Have someone help you out of the pool, it will be slcik getting out. Also a good idea to have the fill water (if by garden hose) run into the pool so that it drops onto the area of the main drain. If there's iron tin that water, it will stain the liner and that metal end on the hose will do the same. Keep that liner vac on until the water is at least 6 inches up the walls.. Plumb up the equipment and do the electrical, gas and what have you. This could have been done at any time after you ran the plumbing lines. When the water is up, time to locate the skimmer and returns. The skimmer is easy to find, but the returns you'll have to scout for. Install the skimmer and return faceplates. Cut out the vinyl inside each. Install the skimmer basket, return fittings, check that you've not missed anything and fire up the equipment. You're done the build .Don't have a beer, get wasted have a case of beer.
Don't put the diving board on that jig, by the way until the deck has cured , about 3 weeks to be safe. It takes a lot of stress and what aint there, the kids can't jump on.
Take a sample of your water to the local pool shop, they'll test for free and suggest what you need for your pool.
And that is for a vinyl inground pool.

what web site can give the best information about construction of swimming pools?

May 17, 2007 by lula | Posted in Other - Visual Arts

Try this one.

i want to build my own swimming pool?

May 02, 2007 by JD | Posted in Other - Home & Garden

ok, so i have a design in my head, im good on the construction side of things, i just want to know the struture of a swimming pool i quess, tell me if i am wrong but this is what i would do: dig a hole the size n shape i want, line the bottom with hardcore then sand, compact it, lay concrete blocks up the side, tile the floor (rather than plain concrete), plaster/tile the sides, thats the way i see it, tell me if i am wrongor missing anything, how do swimming pools filters/heaters work where do they go? if someone could give me some serious advice from experience, and/or links, id be ever so greatful!

royalswimmingpools.com

Perimeter of swimming pool is 58m. Length is 11m more than the width. Find the dimensions. HELP!!?

Oct 11, 2007 by snakehermz | Posted in Homework Help

Here's the question in it's entirety.

A construction company builds a swimming pool with a perimeter of 58m. The length is 11m more than the width. Find the dimensions of the swimming pool.

width = x
length = x + 11

2l + 2w = p
2(x + 11) + 2x = 58
2x + 22 + 2x = 58
4x + 22 = 58
4x = 36
x = 9

width = 9
length = 20

name of college or institute that teaching swimming pool?

Jul 18, 2008 by ayman_72su | Posted in Other - Education

can you provide me with college or institute name that teaching swimming pool technology or give technician licence in canada,,
i am mechanical engineer with 10 years swiming pool design,construction experiance and i need to improve and upgrade my knowlage in this idustruy

Can you clarify your question and provide more details?

Pros and cons of a UK swimming pool?

Apr 27, 2007 by rage707_666 | Posted in Other - Home & Garden

I'm in Edinburgh. It's one of the drier parts of the UK, contrary to popular opinion, as it's in the east. I've seen some pools which double up as very pretty night time light shows (LED-studded pools, for instance).

Do you know of a way of keeping construction or running (e.g. heating) costs down?

Where did you get yours?

We have neighbours who when coming to sell their house found it was a bit of a white elephant and despite having had the pool relined to attract buyers had to reduce their price as viewers said the first thing they would have to do was fill it in. Think carefully, its something you may like the sound of but not many others think a pool in Britain is a good idea. Also I heard that if you install a pool a water meter has to be fitted as well!

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